LONGGG POST ALERT! If u love history, u will love it 😉
Heritage? Hyderabad? Wait! Aren’t they synonymous? 3 yrs of roaming around the nook and corner of the city in search of forts, arches and tombs and I still have so much to explore. Last Saturday, I set out on one such ‘Heritage Trail‘ which starts from Qutub Shahi Tombs [where the rulers of Hyderabad live beyond death] to Golkonda Fort [where they were born and lived in all royalty] The trail ends with the magnificent ‘Sound and Light Show’ at the Fort.
A brief about the history of Golkonda and Hyderabad before we get on with the actual trail. Golkonda, which was known as ‘Managalavaram‘ during the rule of the Kakatiyas, derived its name from ‘Golla Konda‘ meaning ‘Shepherd’s Hill’. The fall of the Kakatiyas to the Delhi Sultanate brought some anarchy to the region. The Bahamani Sultanate [the first independent Islamic Kingdom in the South] fought against the Delhi Sultans and set up an independent state here in the Deccan. It was during this time that the Bahmani king had dispatched Sultan Quli Qutub Shah to quell the disturbances in this region. After the disintegration of the Bahmani Sultanate into the five Deccan sultanates, he declared independence and took title ‘Qutub Shah’, and established Qutub Shahi dynasty of Golconda.
The 5th of the Qutub Shahi rulers, Muhammad Quli Qutub Shah was the one who founded the city of Hyderabad and built the architectural center-piece , Charminar. During his rule, there was a major outbreak of plague in Golkonda and so, in order to curb the epidemic and manage the water and other resources amongst the increasing population of Golkonda, he built another city, Hyderabad. This king had a Hindu commoner named ‘Bhagmati‘ for his wife and so when he had initially named the new city as ‘Bhagnagar‘ [actually meaning the city of gardens], a few ministers fought back that he had named it after his Hindu wife. In order to appease them, he renamed the city as ‘Hyderabad‘ [Hyder se aabaad (prosper)] and conferred the title of ‘Hyder Mahal’ on his wife.
The Qutub Shahi tombs are one of the most authentic evidence of the this dyansty’s architecture. Ensconced amidst picturesque and landscaped gardens, known as Ibrahim Bagh, lie these cluster of tombs dedicated to the 7 rulers of the dynasty who ruled Hyderabad. The area also houses other tombs for the remarkable women of the dynasty, a few relatives and noblemen who were married into the royal household or served them faithfully.
The major highlights of the architecture are:
- The work here is called Stucco work; its not carving.
- There are odd no. of arches in every tomb [3 on each side here]
- The two medallion like structures. Legend has it that a king from this family met a Fakir during one of his journeys and was offered kulchas to eat. The Kind had 7 of them to satiate his hunger and the Fakir blessed him saying that his lineage would rule successfully for 7 generations to come. As a sign of good luck, these kulchas find a place on all their buildings in the form of these medallions.
- The braided plait-like structure.
- The petal-like enclosures at the top of the tomb.
- The pine-apple like structure [Had written about this one in the post on Charminar too] You can see this in both the medallion and the braid pics 🙂
One of the most important tombs here is of Hayat Bakshi Begum, popularly known as ‘Maa Sahib‘ [the area ‘Masab Tank’ in Hyderabad actually derives its name from her] She was the daughter of the 5th ruler and occupied an important place in history for more than one reason. Her father had taken only one wife, unlike most rulers of the time and though he had just this one daughter from her, never looked forward to have a son to succeed him to the throne. He trained her to be a good ruler and as women could not ascend the throne, got her married to his own nephew who could be her public face. She was also probably the only woman who encountered a rival emperor, Aurangzeb, when he had taken her son into custody and tried to strike a deal with him. Needless to say, she has this beautiful tomb built for her along with a wonderful Mosque alongside it, which is supposed to be one of the most well-maintained mosques in India.
In front of her tomb, we can also see a small mosque which was built over-night for Aurangzeb, as he did not have his own place to pray in the city.
Even the lamp-posts here are so artistic!
Another important tomb and one of the most exquisite ones, is of course the one belonging to the 5th ruler, the one who founded Hyderabad. It is the biggest of all the tombs here and also unique as it is the only one which has even number of arches. Also, he wanted his tomb to be built such that Golkonda and Charminar are visible from the point and it is so indeed.
This is the only tomb which has designs influenced by Hindu architecture – the pillars and the temple-like designs @ the top. Remember – he had a Hindu wife, one he lovvved @ that 😉
Most other tombs are comparatively smaller and simpler.
The tombs are believed to have had tiles too, in royal blue and elegant green. Unfortunately, we only have traces to tell us about the same now.
Another important area here is the ‘Mortuary Bath’, where the bodies were taken for a royal bath and dressing-up before they were buried.
Here is the area where the bodies were bathed, 12 spokes representing the ‘Wheels of time’
The vessels used for giving a bath.
Let’s now proceed towards the destination of the trail ‘ Golkonda‘. I have visited the fort about 7-8 times now, but every single time, I get something new to see and learn 🙂
Everything here has been well planned and impeccably designed. But obviously, it took Aurangzeb to bribe an internal member to get into the Fort. All the entry gates to the fort are S-shaped so that even if the rival elephants try to break the huge and strong gates, they don’t get much place for the approaching run-up an hence cannot gain the required momentum. And even if they did, hot oil would be poured from above.
Can u see the opening for the same in the pic here?
This fort is well known for it’s water supply system and its acoustics . The ‘Clapping Portico‘ situated right after the fort’s main gates has a perfectly designed Acoustical system. A hand clap here can be heard at the top of the citadel, situated on a 300-foot high granite hill. This was used to alert the soldiers residing @ the top about the approaching enemy-army. There are many such fascinating features here which could gather even a whispered gossip from anybody living in the fort and none of them could escape from reaching the King’s ears.
The other amazing feature is the ‘Water System‘.
The water pipes were built inside the walls and plastered so that they could supply water, at the same time keeping the entire fort cool!
The Dhobi Ghat lies @ the bottom-most point so that the royal members can discard the soiled clothes as soon as they enter the fort and need not carry it all the way up. Also because very few members were allowed to go all the way up to the palaces of the Kings and the Queens. The Armoury is found at the foothills too so that huge arms need not be carried for long distances when needed and also to save time.
Other important landmarks:
Place were important meetings, gatherings and mass prayers were held. Entry for most people was limited upto this point.
The adjacent chamber where the visitors would stay
Special rooms for visitors dear to the regal household
One of the rooms in the Rani Mahal – where the queens lived.
The minaret structure at the top is the Durbar hall, where the King [the 7th Ruler] used to sit and watch performances by his favorite courtesans, Taramati and Premamati.
The two lived and performed @ ‘Taramati Baradari‘ , a special place built for the purpose, some distance away from the fort. A simple structure, but it stands magnificent in poise and beauty. It’s been so well designed acoustically, yet again, that any sound made , right in the centre of the Baradari carries clearly over to the Golkonda fort. Talk about luxury – this is how the King used to listen to the music resonating from this Baradari!
As a tribute, both Taramati and Premamati were buried in the royal cemetery, the Qutub Shahi Tombs.
Photography is prohibited during the ‘Sound and Light Show’. So, if you see any pics anywhere else, its of-course illegal and those people have gone against the rules 8)
The night-lit fort looks splendid!
Wow! It feels so nice to live in a Heritage City 😀
Let’s remember 🙂
fiiiiiiirsssssssssssssstttttttttttt 😎
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LOL U r quick 😉
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Beautiful!btw r u sure tht lamp post isn’t broken?
Man!! I wish i was a king ! i would have constructed a yellow Bart- mahal for my ‘future’ dead wife!
😀
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Brat, u plan and get a tomb constructed for urself here 😛 Nt for ur wife 😉
Lamp post – Y that qs 😛 😛
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Even before you’ve married your future wife, you’re plotting to kill her!!! Ladies beware
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LOL Point 😉
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I thought the Taj mahal was supposed to be the symbol of ‘love’!
If she hadn’t died ,do you think the Taj Mahal would have had any significance at all, in history?! 🙄
Moreover i was not a big fan of the Mughal emperors,they were just evil kings!Didn’t that guy cut the hands of the workers who built the Taj Mahal? 👿
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I think they wud hv made up some other story then 😉
I am nt a fan of those emperors too 😛 but this architecture, definitely 😀
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LOL at the broken lamp mention, the same thought occurred to me 😀
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Brattu, it’s only nw that I got wat u r asking after Nance commented too lol 😆
By artistic, I did nt mean abt the hanging head 😉 The arches and the braid-like structure even on that one? Isn’t that artistic?
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nope thts just an old broken lamp post! 🙄
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:grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr 😈
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Very well captured pictures with excellent description.
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Thanks Radha 🙂
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Aahhhmaaazing! Well written and comprehensive. Mera Hyderabad 🙂
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Thanks shilpa 🙂
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wow very much informative and the pics are awesome as always
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Thanks ani 🙂
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WOW. Nice pics and a great narrative. Would love to visit Hyderabad someday 🙂
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Pls do T 🙂 Wil be glad to take u arnd 😉
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I WANT TO see all these placessssssssssssssssssss PLEASE
i have been to hyderabad and stayed there for a month once but have forgotten it , it was in 1994 zillion years ago.. I have to come again …
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Pls do sir 🙂
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Aah..this is going back in time. I remember by visit to Hyderabad and the amount of fun I had.
I love old forts..and had a blast with the old clap in one place and hear it far off at the top of the fort bit.. good times.
Thanks for amazing pictures and letting me walk with you. 🙂
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Oh same pinch 😉 I luvvvv gng bk in time @ such places too 🙂
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My mom has always mentioned that there is so much to see in Hyderabad … this was mini tour with some great info and pics 🙂
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Oh ya CA. Lotz to c within the city 🙂 🙂 Thank u 🙂
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Present Meeeeessssssssssss 🙂 Will come back to read at leisure tomorrow morning!! Right now, my eyelids are drooping 🙂
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LOL Pal .. waiting for u 😉
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Ah.. never paid so much of attention to these places in Hyderabad! History about the name is something I wasn’t aware of, never liked history in my schooldays anyways 😛 Things have changed i watch history channel very often nowadays. Great post Swaram with pics and your narration.
So, tourist guide is the next job in backup plan? 😀
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LOL thanks Mohan. I luvvv dng it actually 🙂 Atleast, my friends and family always get a free guide 😛 😛
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Excellent post and beautiful pix. I loved it. Many a times I go to the city heritage sites and the ruins . Delhi is full of them but peeping into history of your city was a thrilling experience . keep sharing such wonderful information. very inspiring
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Thanks so much Tiku 🙂
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I love your travel writing. This was like taking a walk through the city. Would love to do it for real.
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Aww thanks so much Hypermom. Pls make a trip soon. Wud be more than happy to hv u here 🙂
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Thank you, thank you, thank you for all the Hyd pics – I miss this city like crazy !!!
Am actually so happy to see the Fort !!! 🙂
Of course, I’ve been there with family visiting from Chennai – and it was a gr8 exp. 🙂 Reminded me of those lovely times spent in Hyd. 🙂
Hugs and thanks 🙂
Even though I’ve heard of the stories, it was wonderful reading them all here, from your page. 🙂 I am so glad to read abt Hyd. 🙂
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Hai na? I knew I knew 🙂
Time for u to make a trip soon 😛 😛 😛
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How I wish to do a trip !!! HHHmmmm….. 🙂
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I wish I wish 😉
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Lovely post, Swaram, with complete details et. al. Thanks a lot for sharing.
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Pleasure RS. Plsss come to Hyd on ur next trip here 🙂
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Beautiful place ! I just love all those monuments from history. The pics and your description; it was like going to the place with an audio commentary.
How far is this from the city? and how long does it take to view the whole thing ? Will make sure I visit them in my next trip to Hyd. hope you dont mind seeing them once again 😀 But as mentioned, I love going through history; unfortunately, laxmi hates it ! 😦
and now for the title quiz…H for Hat !
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Vims, I told u last time that u hv to extend ur trip :grrrrrrrrr!
These are within the city Vimmuuu 🙂 just abt 10 kms from my place 🙂 🙂 🙂
I wud luv to do it again and again 🙂
Wah wah! I am nw convinced u hv learnt ur alphabets well 😛 😛
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Vimmuuu, Laxmi might hate history, but she loves going out with you…so go for it…dont blame her zimbly !!! 😉
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niice! 😀
The pics and the write up – very fascinating 🙂
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Thanks 🙂
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H for Hangover was the 1st thing that came to my mind.. hehe!!
lovely post.. Had been to the Fort and all other places long ago, reading this makes me wanna visit again…. well, pssst.. i am planning a trip.. will keep u posted 🙂
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LOL thatz nice Aarti. I hv seen that most ppl dnt see these tombs usually 🙂
Oh woww! Welcome 🙂
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Beautiful pics swaram 🙂 Now I really want to visit Hyd once… I had seen and posed in front of some of these monuments, when I was a small kid. I hardly remember anything. I want to see these again.. Nice photography!!!
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Welcome. Plan a weekend trip 🙂 🙂 🙂
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Loved it loved it loved… bought back memories of the trips me and bro used ot make wen mom n dad used ot live in HYD…. Golconda fort has always been my fav…alongwith birla temple…. i havent seen a beautiful fort like golcaonda eva in my life… thank u so much swaru… and the husain sagar pic???
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Oh wow .. plsss make another trip soon then 😛
Hussain Sagar – hv a few pics in an old post. Here 🙂
https://thesongoflife.wordpress.com/2009/11/25/whatz-in-a-title/
Rest, lost them with the lost laptop 😦 😦
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thanks for the link 🙂
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Wow! beautiful pix and so informative! I want to read this one more time !!!! Nice one !
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Thanks soo much Indy 🙂
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Lovely! Enjoyed reading this post. Made me want to go back in time and spend some time in Hyd. Have been there a few times before for work but those were short, hectic trips so couldn’t really enjoy the city. It really does have such a unique charm about it tho 🙂
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Oh it does. Totally royal 🙂 🙂 Hope u make a visit soon 🙂
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You have awesome patience :).. not just for the post and the pics.. the whole package..but to actually travel to these places, record, shoot, blog.. I guess its the interest that drives the whole thing 🙂 enjoy 🙂
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Thanks Lavs. U r very sweet to say that. Ur rt – It’s just that I luv these things 🙂 Thank u 🙂
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Wow! loved this post Swar 😛
Brilliant pictures with wonderful information 😀 😀
Love visiting historical places, they brim with inspiration, rich cultural heritage and the beautiful monuments are a treat for the eyes 🙂 🙂
Keep ’em coming girl 😛
Cheers!!
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Oh u r so rt abt historical places CB 🙂 Thank u 🙂
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Nice read Swaram 🙂 and lovely pics. Glad to see that you enjoy Hyd !!
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Thanks Priya 🙂 It’s easier to live in a place away from home when I enjoy living there no 😉 😉
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What strikes me about the heritage sites; esp forts, is the foresight, planning and meticulous execution that has gone into these!! Why don’t present day planners, engineers take some lessons from here? hai na..
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Bang on Priya! Marvellous and we think we are wayyy ahead 🙂
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great post ..
visited Hyderabad once ..saw only 2-3 places ..
I love the information you pass on about various places you visit
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Thanks so much vandana 🙂 Do visit again 🙂
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As usual, enjoyed the tour of hyd. I know I am probably never gonna b able to do it, so I wait for swaram’s post!! 😀
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Oh ho y?? Some weekend probably 😉
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Wow, I first thought of not reading the whole post but once I started, I kept reading till the end. Also realised, it is not a very long post.
You’re really a history bug, I don’t really care to remember all the details once I leave the historical place.
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Oh is that a compliment 😛 😛 Thank u 😉
May be, I cn turn off the alert then 😉
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Ohh wow pictures are really beautiful..Refreshed my memories of Hyderabad and its heritage…keep on posting more 🙂
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Sure Sree .. thank u 🙂
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Wow Swaram…….thank u for tht lovely tour of Hyderbad. I love visitng historical places and keep sinking into the past thinking how it would all have been like in the olden days. The Mysore Palace is a favourite haunt of mine…gone there many times but still am ready to go there once more.
History books have already taught me tht Hyderbad has a rich and varied past but thru the eyes of another person it is precious. Zoomed into the pinapple pic and checked it out…..totally hooked me 😀
After a week-long absense u came back with a kick-ass post, way to go girl:-))!!!!
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Nance, this is mainly to get u to Hyd on ur next trip atleast 😛 😛 😛
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Wow…just came back from a visit to Hyderabad and saw this post from you!!! What a coincidence!!!!
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Oh wow 🙂
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Beautiful snaps!! 🙂
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Awesome pics! 🙂
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Thanks EC and Divz 🙂 🙂 🙂
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munche ne gotitdre swalpa sabina powder, brush kaLuhistidde
This place is so dirty, chi yappa
H for HaLE Holusu
But I encourage you to go on more of such trips, it suits me 😛
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hehe 😀
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Thanks Ur Highness. Permission onde baaki ithu 😛 😛
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Wonderful Swaram 🙂
The explanation and photos go well and it looked like a travel through history 🙂 🙂
Lot of efforts there 🙂
I didn’t noticed this much when I went there 🙂 I just loved that high walls while returning back 🙂
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Oh ya Kanagu, I missed out the walls part he he 😉 😉
Thank u 🙂
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Nice ‘guided’ tour :-)When I visited Golconda Fort, the first thing I was told was the intelligent acoustic system in place. How I wish I could’ve tested it first-hand. Usually more than the architecture, trivia like this totally amazes me!!!! Very nice post!!
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Same here too 🙂
Oh u dint try it? Time to make another trip then 😉
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Wow..this was such a beautiful informative post Swaram. Loved it 🙂 The pics are as usual superb!
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Thanks so much Homey. Glad u liked it 🙂
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Some lovely photographs there.. and my my what prolific information on Hyderabad.This is great. you make me want to visit the city again 🙂
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Pls do LOI 🙂
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WOW!! awesome post….very well written about all the historical places. loved the composition in the photo of the arches.
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Thanks so much Reema 🙂
Clicking arches is something I love to do 🙂 🙂
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When we went to Hyderabad for the first time we took a Conducted tour, It was totally paisa wasool. But it was at least 7-8 years!
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Oh wow thatz nice 🙂
From the tourism dept?
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Wonderful post swaram.Came to know new things about Golconda fort,did u see the prison where bakta ramadas was jailed.I remember when i was a kid my mom took us to golconda and she showed the jail where ramadas was jailed by tanashah.
Never went to Qutub Shahi tombs and salarjun museum.The museum is in the list of the places i have to visit before i die.
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U r so humble and always open to know new things Sari. I luv u for that 🙂
Ya, hv seen the jail many times before. This walk took a different path 🙂 🙂
I luvvv visiting Golkonda, this ws the 7th or 8th time 🙂 🙂
The Museum is superb. I hv gone there 4 times, but hv nt been able to see it completely as yet 🙂 🙂
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I love these ancient sites and history attached to it.Thanx for sharing such a wonderful info about my city opps our city
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Ha ha ha 🙂
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Wow Swaram, that was a detailed tour of Hyderabad that I could never have myself when I was there.. Thanks 🙂
You really have a flair for historic narration!
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Thanks so much Piyu. Am glad u liked it 🙂 🙂
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Swar…u know we had one of our plays staged there at Taramati Baradari where you got the pic clicked :)! & it was about Taramati. I had a brief role there…got so nostalgic 🙂 Its a beautiful place in fact most of the pics…they all speak so much about our rich cultural heritage!!
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oh Dew! Pls lemme know if there is some play again. I wud luvvvv to be there 🙂
And feels soo nice to hv u bk 🙂
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sure dear! Thanks so much 🙂 me too happy to get back to u all 😀
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🙂 🙂 🙂
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are you sre you went for just ek heritage walk! this is a mind blowingly detailed post!! LOVED it!
cheers!
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Ha ha so sweet of u to say that Abha. Thank u so much 🙂 Am glad u liked it 🙂
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